The old port railway in lingering snow

FIELD NOTE 02 · RAIL / INDUSTRIAL HISTORY

A rail that crossed
the Pacific.

Yingkou, Liaoning, China · February 2025

On a small railway bridge near the old Yingkou station in Liaoning, Northeast China, a line stamped into a rail in 1923 connects the industrial histories of the Northeast, Japan and the American South.

Deep winter, patches of snow, dead grass. At the entrance to Yingkou’s old port district, a railway bridge only about ten metres long crosses a tidal channel. It is called Gonglong Bridge. For more than twenty years the line has seen little use; rails, sleepers and abandoned freight cars remain quietly in place.

I happened to pass by in February 2025. Knowing a little of the old station’s history, I began looking for traces of its past. As expected, I found a century-old remnant: an emblem of the South Manchuria Railway. The surprise was a completely unfamiliar English word on the rusting rail: TENNESSEE! Could it be the Tennessee of Jack Daniel’s?

Tennessee is a state in the American Midwest. Apart from whiskey, music and a strong Southern accent, little else distinctive came to mind. After 1905, Northeast China was undergoing the rapid formation and development of a modern economy. Could it really have had a connection with Tennessee, far across the ocean and deep inland?

01THE BRIDGE

A bridge under ten metres long
can still have a name of its own.

A local account says the name Gonglong combines gong from Hada Kō, head of the Dalian railway office, and long from Yingkou stationmaster Taga Nobutaka. The story still needs confirmation in early gazetteers or archival records, but the name itself has entered Yingkou’s railway memory.

After the Russo-Japanese War, Japan acquired railway rights in 1905 and established the South Manchuria Railway Company the following year. Yingkou became a branch-line node linking its port with the Northeast interior. The railway helped form modern transport, promoted the growth of industry along the line, and became a catalyst for the modernisation of the Northeast economy. It remained important infrastructure for Yingkou’s economy until the end of the twentieth century.

The former Yingkou port district
02 · The former Yingkou port district
Gonglong Bridge from the side
03 · Gonglong Bridge from the side
Disused track among winter grass
04 · Disused track among winter grass
Freight cars left in the old port district
05 · Freight cars left in the old port district
02THE SURPRISE

The unexpected word:
TENNESSEE.

My first thought was the inland state in the American South. What could Tennessee possibly have to do with Yingkou in the 1920s?

By reading a sequence of photographs together, the rolling mark can be reconstructed approximately as:

O H TENNESSEE 10020 ARA A 4 1923

A brief search showed that TENNESSEE was not a place of manufacture, but the corporate mark of a Southern company: the Tennessee Coal, Iron and Railroad Company, or TCI. Despite its name, its major steelmaking base was around Ensley, Alabama. From 1907, TCI became part of U.S. Steel. Whether Tennessee or Alabama, the names brought to mind little industrial imagery beyond a few Stephen Foster songs. I decided to search further online.

A circular emblem on the rail
06 · A circular emblem on the rail
Mill mark: O H TENNESSEE
07 · Mill mark: O H TENNESSEE
Mill mark: 10020 · ARA A
08 · Mill mark: 10020 · ARA A
The rail inscription photographed in sequence
09 · The rail inscription photographed in sequence
Mill mark: ARA A · 4 · 1923
10 · Mill mark: ARA A · 4 · 1923
03READ THE STEEL

What can the stamp actually tell us?

An online search quickly led to a very useful website, with a striking photograph on its home page. Its “Identifying Marks” link opened a manual on rail diagnosis and maintenance that explained how to read rail inscriptions—exactly what I needed. With the help of that document, most of the inscription could be interpreted:

O H

Open Hearth steel. It identifies the steelmaking process. Page 11 of the manual.

Steelmaking process
TENNESSEE

The company or rail-brand mark of the Tennessee Coal, Iron and Railroad Company. Its main mills were in Alabama; it is now part of U.S. Steel. Page 9 of the manual.

Manufacturer
10020

A 100-pound-per-yard rail and its cross-section design standard—the section standard associated with ARA A below.

Weight / section
ARA A

The American Railway Association Type A (“American Railway Association, high speed”) rail specification. Page 12 of the manual.

Rail specification
4 · 1923

Under common marking practice of the period, this most likely means the rail was rolled in April 1923.

Date of manufacture
Put into words, the inscription describes a rail made by the Tennessee Coal, Iron and Railroad Company in April 1923, produced by the open-hearth process and conforming to the ARA A application and the 10020 standard. The research also revealed that rail lettering itself followed rules governing such details as character size and relief, and that the conventions changed—for example, later makers used vertical lines to mark the month, with five lines meaning May. I will not list every convention here.
04THE NETWORK

The global industrial network
behind one rail.

In 1923, railways, ports, mining and urban industry were expanding rapidly across Northeast China. Heavy rail required a mature steel industry; in return, railways carried coal, ore, grain and machinery over ever greater distances.

Another rail in the photograph below carries the emblem of the Yawata works in Fukuoka, Japan—a long-established enterprise in Fukuoka Prefecture.

If these two rails were installed here from the beginning, they show that the South Manchuria Railway had built a global supply chain in that era. Today, the central advantages of a global supply chain are understood as lower costs, distributed risk, optimised allocation of resources and greater overall efficiency. This approach undoubtedly helped the company’s later growth.

What is certain is that this small, seemingly peripheral place once belonged to a manufacturing, purchasing and transport network that crossed the Pacific. A region’s modernisation never happens only within that region.

A Japanese specification mark on another rail
11 · A Japanese specification mark on another rail
Disused port-railway infrastructure
13 · Disused port-railway infrastructure
Rails and sleepers buried in winter grass
14 · Rails and sleepers buried in winter grass
05OPEN QUESTIONS

Where the answers stop,
the next investigation begins.

A clear circular emblem was also found at the site. It is the mark of the South Manchuria Railway.

More questions remain unanswered. From which American port did the rail depart? When was it laid in Yingkou? Can the story behind the name Gonglong Bridge be confirmed in archival records?

When I saw them, the rails and sleepers had already been gazing up at the stars from this frozen ground for more than a century. In the twenty-first century, trains have become scarce and the centre of industry has moved elsewhere. Yet the line of letters on the rail still preserves coordinates left by its maker, technical standards and global trade. A single rail truly can hold so much history that has gone unnoticed to this day.

A circular mark found at the site
12 · A circular mark found at the site
NEXT CLUEFind 1920s rail catalogues, Mantetsu purchasing records and local Yingkou archives.